As Cosmetics 27 joins the Ali Bin Ali Beauty portfolio, founder Michèle Evrard looks back on the personal discovery that transformed her approach to skincare. Learn how one remarkable plant, Centella Asiatica, became the foundation of a regenerative philosophy that challenges conventional ideas of anti-ageing.
Cosmetics 27 was born from a very personal journey and a deep understanding of skin health. Can you share the story behind the creation of the brand?
After a ski accident in 1996, I underwent two knee surgeries that left a long scar on my leg. Determined to erase every trace of that experience, I tested various healing creams on different parts of the scar and discovered the remarkable properties of Centella Asiatica. Where I applied it, the scar almost completely disappeared. Having studied botany and medicinal plants during my pharmacy training, I began researching this plant more deeply. From that insight, I set out to develop a product rooted in both science and personal experience: a daily skin-regenerating and protective remedy that harnesses the skin’s own healing intelligence. That product became Baume 27.
Centella Asiatica is at the heart of Cosmetics 27 and has become one of the brand’s most recognised signatures. What first drew you to this remarkable ingredient, and why does it remain so central to your formulations today?
I discovered Centella Asiatica’s remarkable properties while healing post-surgery scars. My research led me to Professor FX Maquart, a Biochemistry and Molecular Biology Professor at the University of Reims, whose pioneering work on the plant’s regenerating properties was a true inspiration. His insights helped me select the right extracts, dosages and skin biomarkers to target.
I chose three of its most active molecules, three heterosides: madecassoside, asiaticoside, and asiatic acid. They have exceptional repairing, regenerating and anti-inflammatory activities. Together, they form the CICA-MA2 Complex: an entirely unique proprietary ingredient, distinct from anything and any standardised extract of Centella commonly used in the industry.
As a pharmacist and skincare innovator, you have long advocated a regenerative approach to beauty. What does skin regeneration mean in practical terms for consumers, and how does it differ from traditional anti-ageing skincare?
Regeneration is the skin’s daily response to damage: a self-repair mechanism rooted in homeostasis, the body’s innate drive towards balance. With age and accumulated external and internal stressors, this capacity gradually diminishes. My goal has been to restore it, to give the skin its resilience back.
I rarely use the term ‘anti-ageing’. I advocate for regeneration instead. My philosophy is not about reversing time but about improving how we age. Longevity is the true purpose. Regeneration leads the path.
Modern lifestyles place significant stress on the skin, from environmental aggressors and pollution to lack of sleep and daily stress. How does Cosmetics 27 help support skin health and resilience in today’s world?
Our first rule is to not further damage the skin, so we include soothing, anti-inflammatory ingredients and the most preventative way is to focus on antioxidants that will reinforce the skin’s resilience. One topic that is also part of our approach to skin health and protection is balancing the microbiome. The microbiome is kind of the fourth layer and very first line of defence of our skin. The probiotics fight back and prevent bacterial and other pathogen invasion. We integrate prebiotics and postbiotics in all our formulas, these help maintain the integrity of the microbiome which is increasingly attacked in our daily lives.
Cosmetics 27 is known for combining pharmaceutical expertise, naturally derived ingredients and rigorous formulation standards. What principles guide product development at the brand, and why are they so important to you?
My pharmacy training gave me a strong foundation in formulation: dosage, ingredient safety, absorption and efficacy. It taught me that what you apply – or ingest – has a real effect on the body. From the start, I worked with natural, plant-based ingredients while minimising chemicals, never compromising on safety or results. Each formula takes up to three years to validate.
I work until every formula meets my expectations: texture, application, finish, naturality and – most importantly – skin penetration.
All our formulas are biomimetic – a concept that predates current trends. They must have a true affinity with the skin, reproducing its physico-chemical structure through lamellar emulsions, a type of emulsion that mimics the skin’s hydro-lipidic structure. We talk about ‘skin-mimetism’. It adds significant complexity to the formulation process, but it is non-negotiable.
Skin barrier health has become one of the most important topics in modern skincare. How do Cosmetics 27 formulations support skin resilience and long-term barrier function, particularly in an environment where consumers are often exposed to over-treatment and excessive product use?
The skin barrier is the part of the skin we have to preserve at all times. It is a barrier where many exchanges take place, water, temperature, toxins… so, it has to remain in good health and condition. It is right above the dermis and is also a promoter for dermis regeneration. So, the stronger the barrier, the better the skin structure and integrity will remain.
The barrier is a hydro-lipidic structure, so it needs water and oil to maintain its activity. Omega 3 and 6 are important to reinforce the structure, as well as peptides and antioxidants. We also use ceramides in all formulas, they are an important component of the cellular membranes, helping maintain hydration and supporting cellular renewal.
Baume 27 has achieved cult status among skincare enthusiasts worldwide and remains one of the brand’s most iconic products. What do you believe has made this formulation so enduringly relevant, and why does it continue to resonate with consumers today?
The results! Customers stay loyal and faithful to what ‘talks’ to them. There is a solution for everyone in our products because we take care of the skin, bringing it what it needs to strive and build its resilience and maintain its balance. We pride ourselves on having a very loyal base of customers (addicts!). They might go and search for a miracle rejuvenating product, but they always come back because we are good to their skin!
Looking back at the journey of Cosmetics 27, what achievement or milestone makes you most proud?
Women’s – and men’s – satisfaction and loyalty! I receive very personal and moving testimonials and questions. People are most often lost with their skin and in a market overflowing with newness, extreme claims, the quest for more and better, they don’t know how to choose and what to choose. That’s why I put such importance on education and service, help
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